Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Doublet in a week - day 1 continued

Yeah that seems like an oxymoron, but the previous post was getting long.  So here are the instructions for the collar and epaulets.

Epaulets are the wing-like structures that stick out fro the arm hole on a doublet.  They are unique to Doublets (with the exception of some '80 fashion.)  There has been a tendency in some faire costumes for these to become little baseball cap like winglets that are non-historical.  The historical epaulets almost went all the way around the armscye when they existed at all.  There are some examples of doublets, particularly ones that would fit under armour.  

Epaulet construction
1.   Draw a straight line,
2.      Select a distance not less than ½ the Armscye AS
3.      Mark T and T’ at either end of your selected distance.
4.      Mark a center line between T and T’
5.      Measure out from this center line 2-4 fingers mark a point

6.      Measure up from T and T’ one finger width, mark these points.
7.      Connect all three points just measured with a gentle curve.  This is the outer edge of the epaulet.
8.      From the center line measure down one thumb width, mark a point
9.      With a gentle curve connect this point to T and T’, this is the inner edge of the epaulet.

There are two different ways that the collar can be constructed.  Band and Grown in, Band is simply a straight strip of fabric that is the length Neck, so I will walk through how to make a grown in collar.  If you don’t like it or want a simpler solution simply cut or leave it off.  Collars during this time were typically tall to support the typical Ruffs.

Collar construction
1.   From Point H measure up 2-4 fingers, mark point H’, connect H to H’
2.      From point A mark a point one less finger up than you just marked H’, Connect A to A’

3.      Draw a gentle curve connecting H’ to A’,
* Note Rounding the corner at H makes a better fit and eliminates the wrinkles at the back of the neck.
4.      Measure the distance from G to G’, use this distance to draw a straight line for collar A
 5.      Measure up from G the distance from H to H’, mark a point.
6.      Mark a point 2-3 fingers up from point G’

7.      Connect these points with a gentle curve.

8.      *Optional – gently curving the upward lines outward allows for the flaring of a ruffled shirt and tends to fit better.

Note that this pattern Does NOT have seam allowances already added in.  You must add them yourself.

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