Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Defining Terms

So what is a doublet?  Hopefully if you are reading this Blog then you already have some idea as to what you refer to as a doublet.  Janet Arnold was a leading researcher in the area of historical clothing, and I lean heavily on her research in defining these terms.  Just so that we are all speaking the same language I will define my terms as follows;

Doublet - a tight fitted upper garment derived from the aketon and pourepoint
·        As the name suggests, the garment is always lined, doubling the layers.
·        The bottom edge is Pointed in front and flat across the back
·        It has tabs or skirting around the bottom, often with epaulets or rolls at shoulders
·        High waisted, sits at the natural waist, not where jeans sit closer to the belly button.
·        Pants can be tied in showing its evolution from the Pourepoint and Aketon in previous period.  (Suspenders are not period)
·        Upper classes are well tailored, lower classes have less tailoring but still tight fit.
·        They are often padded (sometimes quilted) throughout especially in the belly region, called a peasecod.
·        Sleeves are Attached, I now think permanently except in women’s and children’s doublets.  They are also made of the same fabric as the doublet.
·        Generally made of the same fabric on both sleeves and doublet body, and only one fabric, with the exception of trim.  (The mixing of multiple fabrics is a modern convention)

Jerkin - over coat- short, no sleeves
·        Usually worn over the doublet for the upper classes, but can be worn alone by the lower classes.
·        Looser fitting than a doublet, usually worn open at the bottom, closed toward the top by upper classes
·        Sometimes made of leather, but are generally made from other hardy fabrics
·        Can also be a working garment.
·        Is not necessarily lined, often not in lower classes.
·        Epaulets and skirting like the doublet

Please don’t just trust me, see period sources below and at
Here are some examples of Doublets

 And here are a few Doublets with Jerkins
 White doublet with Black leather (velvet?) Jerkin
Buff Jerkin over a red silk (leather?) doublet
 More Jerkins over Doublets (note the difference in opening)

There are other more draping garments which I hope to cover at a later time

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