Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Measurements for Doublet

Measurements needed to construct a
Basic Block Doublet
This is all based on an Original presentation by Jose Fellipe Franciso of the SCA, I have borrowed and modified his techniques.  He has my thanks for showing me the way of thirds, and showing me how traditional pattern drafting could be done.  Thank you sir, you made a huge difference for me and others.  I would like to talk with you again now that I understand a little bit more of how it works.
All errors are mine.

Allow me to explain how this technique will work since it is different from more modern drafting techniques.  This is based on a technique that pre-dates standardized rulers and measuring tapes.  In period, Tailors used a string and knots or threads to mark the measurements.  We will use a long strip of paper (about 45-60 inches) and measure from one end and mark with a pencil on the strip.  This strip can be saved and the measurements used for multiple patterns.  It also avoids things like are we measuring to a ¼ inch a ½ inch, we just use the exact measurement, and you won’t have to deal with embarrassing numbers.

This will require various folding techniques.  When we need Half the measurements, just fold it in half, when we need 1/3 use an envelope fold.  See no math, no need for a calculator, for you math-phobics.

For small measurements we will use a measuring device that you can’t set down, your fingers.  Use the width of one, two or more fingers for small measurements like easing or expanding a pattern piece.  Don’t worry over the idea that your fingers are different from mine; you will get used to yours and modify your patterns and instructions accordingly.  For example I use one finger as seam allowance on all my patterns, does that seam about right?  Would you prefer a thumb width?

Measurements - for a Doublet or Jerkin these are the basics.

Ideally these should be taken while wearing the pants and shirt that you will wear with the doublet.  Otherwise I will be assuming that the model is wearing jeans and a t-shirt, but I will refer to anatomical points as much as possible.

  • Front length = FL – From the hollow of the throat to the bottom of the belt (as worn in jeans)
  • Back length = BL – from the top of the neck to the top of the pants.
  • From the neck to the shoulder = S – as close in to the neck as possible to the point of the shoulder (the point that goes up and down when you raise and lower your arm)
  • Around the chest at the nipple level + 3-4 fingers = C
  • Around the belly (quit sucking it in) at the belly button +2-3 fingers = Be
  • Waist at the top of the jeans or pants + 2 fingers = W
  • Neck around with 1 finger under tape +3 fingers = N
  • Armscye = AS – fairly tight in around the armpit from shoulder point and back to shoulder point.  Tighter is better, you can make it bigger not smaller.

Sleeve measurements
  • Arm length from point of shoulder to wrist = A
  • Wrist Circumference = Wr
  • Bicep measurement = B
  • Elbow measurement, distance from shoulder to elbow = E

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