**Instructions for the construction of a Basic Block Doublet**

Original presentation by Jose Fellipe Franciso of the SCA, with thanks for showing me the way of thirds.

**Measurements**- for a Doublet or Jerkin these are the basics.

· Front length =

**FL -**From the hollow of the throat to the bottom of the belt (as worn in jeans)· Back length =

**BL**– from the top of the neck to the top of the pants.· From the neck to the shoulder =

**S**– as close in to the neck as possible to the point of the shoulder (the point that goes up and down when you raise and lower your arm)· Around the chest + 3-4 fingers =

**C**· Around the belly (quit sucking it in) at the belly button +2-3 fingers =

**Be**· Waist at the top of the jeans or pants + 2 fingers =

**W**· Neck around with 1 finger under tape +3 fingers =

**N**· Armscye =

**AS**– fairly tight in around the armpit from shoulder point and back to shoulder point. Tighter is better, you can make it bigger not smaller.**Sleeve measurements**

· Arm length from point of shoulder to wrist =

**A**· Wrist Circumference =

**Wr**· Bicep measurement =

**B**· Elbow measurement, distance from shoulder to elbow =

**E****Layout of basic block**

Quick walk through of how to apply the measurements to the actual pattern.

1. Draw a rectangle ABCD with the height =

**BL**and the length =½**C**2. Draw line EF 2-3 fingers lower than half of

**BL**3. Across line AD mark it into 1/3 and square down to line EF.

5. Down 1 thumb width from line AD mark a point J on the back 1/3 mark.

6. From point D mark a point G, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6

^{th}) the neck**N**, along line DA7. From point D mark a point G

**’**, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6^{th}) the neck**N**, along line DC8. Square in from points G and G

**’**, round the corner of the box formed.9. From point A mark a point H, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6

^{th}) the neck**N**.10. From point H draw a line towards point J the length of

**S**(shoulder)11. From point G draw a line towards point I the length of

**S**(shoulder)12. Using measurement

**AS**(Armscye) connect points I and J and touch the line EF. This line should bulge towards the front, not symmetrically. 13. Pick a point on this curve, near line EF and about 2/3 of the way from I to J mark it K

14. Measure from B 1/3 of half

**W**(the waist), mark this point L.15. Connect point K to L. This line can be curved or straight depending on fit.

16. Measure from C 2/3 of half

**W**(the waist), mark this point M.17. Draw a line from K towards W the length of KL, this line may be curved or straight depending on fit.

18. Measure from point G’ (the front length) the distance

**FL**mark this point N.19. Draw a gentle curve connecting N to M, it should be close to 2/3 of half the

**W**aist.20. Measure out from about ½ way between point F and C 1-2 fingers and draw a point.

21. Connect points G’ and N through this new point out from F, This creates the Peascod.

And darken in the lines of the Doublet Pattern

**Note that the Pattern is constructed withOUT seam allowances, so be sure to add them in.**

## No comments:

## Post a Comment