Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Doublet in a Week - Day 1

Instructions for the construction of a Basic Block Doublet
Original presentation by Jose Fellipe Franciso of the SCA, with thanks for showing me the way of thirds.

Measurements - for a Doublet or Jerkin these are the basics.
·               Front length = FL - From the hollow of the throat to the bottom of the belt (as worn in jeans)
·               Back length = BL – from the top of the neck to the top of the pants.
·               From the neck to the shoulder = S – as close in to the neck as possible to the point of the shoulder (the point that goes up and down when you raise and lower your arm)
·               Around the chest + 3-4 fingers = C
·               Around the belly (quit sucking it in) at the belly button +2-3 fingers = Be
·               Waist at the top of the jeans or pants + 2 fingers = W
·               Neck around with 1 finger under tape +3 fingers = N
·               Armscye = AS – fairly tight in around the armpit from shoulder point and back to shoulder point.  Tighter is better, you can make it bigger not smaller.
Sleeve measurements
·               Arm length from point of shoulder to wrist = A
·               Wrist Circumference = Wr
·               Bicep measurement = B
·               Elbow measurement, distance from shoulder to elbow = E

Layout of basic block
         Quick walk through of how to apply the measurements to the actual pattern.

1.   Draw a rectangle ABCD with the height = BL and the length =½C
2.         Draw line EF 2-3 fingers lower than half of BL
3.   Across line AD mark it into 1/3 and square down to line EF.
4.      Down 2-2 ½ fingers from line AD mark a point I on the front 1/3 mark just drawn.

5.      Down 1 thumb width from line AD mark a point J on the back 1/3 mark.

6.      From point D mark a point G, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6th ) the neck N, along line DA
7.      From point D mark a point G, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6th ) the neck N, along line DC
8.      Square in from points G and G, round the corner of the box formed.

9.      From point A mark a point H, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6th ) the neck N.

10.    From point H draw a line towards point J the length of S (shoulder)
11.    From point G draw a line towards point I the length of S (shoulder)
12.       Using measurement AS (Armscye) connect points I and J and touch the line EF.  This line should bulge towards the front, not symmetrically.
 13.    Pick a point on this curve, near line EF and about 2/3 of the way from I to J mark it K
14.    Measure from B 1/3 of half W (the waist), mark this point L.
15.    Connect point K to L.  This line can be curved or straight depending on fit.
16.    Measure from C 2/3 of half W (the waist), mark this point M.
17.    Draw a line from K towards W the length of KL, this line may be curved or straight depending on fit.
18.    Measure from point G’ (the front length) the distance FL mark this point N.
19.    Draw a gentle curve connecting N to M, it should be close to 2/3 of half the Waist.
20.    Measure out from about ½ way between point F and C 1-2 fingers and draw a point.
21.    Connect points G’ and N through this new point out from F, This creates the Peascod.
And darken in the lines of the Doublet Pattern
Note that the Pattern is constructed withOUT seam allowances, so be sure to add them in.

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