Saturday, March 3, 2012

Doublet in a Week - Day 2

Some of you may have already begun Day Two with the epaulets and collar, if not Welcome to day two Sleeves and tabs or skirting.  We shall begin with Sleeves.

As was mentioned in the Definitions section, Doublets have Sleeves, if it has no sleeves it is a Jerkin.  The sleeves are the same fabric as the Doublet on all the extant men’s doublets that I have seen, and all the portraits that I have seen.  I have found that when it looks like the sleeves are a different fabric from the body of the doublet it turns out that the outer garment is a jerkin and there is a doublet of the same fabric underneath. 
Many modern renactors will attempt to achieve this look by wearing sleeves of a different color or fabric with a doublet.  If you are going to do this please keep in mind that the doublet underneath is supposed to be the same fabric as the sleeves and that the garment that you are wearing as outer wear is in fact acting as a Jerkin.
I would love to see counter example of this as it would free up men’s clothing possibilities.  So if you have examples that you think are contradicting what is stated here please bring them up.

On to Patterning sleeves.
Sleeves - Two basic types

Measurements Needed:

                     Armseye - (AS) from the doublet measurement, point of the shoulder under the arm and back, snug but not uncomfortable.
                     Wrist - (Wr) around the wrist with 1 to 3 fingers under the tape depending on looseness desired and thickness of shirt.
                     Arm - (Arm) from the point of the shoulder to the Wrist.

Sleeve type A
This sleeve type is designed to be able to be opened in the front and hang at the sides.  It is best mounted to the doublet with point G at the shoulder seam or just in front of it. It may be buttoned closed or sewn closed.  This sleeve type is not only loosely period, and is more designed for those who do events in the heat and want the option of hanging sleeves without the annoyance of them getting in the way all the time.
The design is fairly simple and involves only a couple of seams and a few button holes.  As a point of future interest these sleeves can be modified by making them longer and then they will serve quite well on a scholar’s robe or as hanging sleeves with other sleeves underneath.

1.       Draw line AB the length of the Arm

2.      Square out from A the length of ½ Armseye (AS) to C and D to either side. 

3.      Square out from B ½ of Wrist to points E and F to either side

4.      Connect C to the line squared up from E, similarly connect D to line up from F

5.      Connect F` to B to E` with a curve, edges meeting at 90*.

6.      Half way between A and C, measure up 2 fingers (3-4 for puffy upper sleeves.) G
7.      Halfway between A and D, measure Down 2 fingers (only 2 even for puffy) H
8.      Connect D to H to A to G to C with a smooth curve, ending at 90*.

As with All these patterns there is NO SEAM ALLOWANCE added, You must add it in.

Sleeve type B
This sleeve is tighter fitting and a good generic basic sleeve. Both pieces are laid out as the same shape with a different top curve. These sleeves are what you will find in multiple instances in period sources.  They are sometimes all cut as one piece with the back of the upper arm being left attached, forming a sort of inverted Y shape.  The shape of these sleeves allows for the arms to be held at a naturally bent angle without the wrinkling that would normally happen with a tube sleeve like in sleeve A.  This sleeve is the natural choice for Courtiers and others conscious of their appearance.
When attaching the sleeve, the top of the sleeve should be mounted behind the shoulder seam on the doublet.  This pushes the arms forward where they actually hang, not in some sort of Military parade rest position.
This pattern is a little different from most patterns since you will be creating both the top and bottom pieces on the sleeve on the same piece with a slight change at the top for the top opening.  I find that punching holes along the lower (inner) sleeve line allows for a dotted line to trace over in tracing on the fabric.      

1.      Draw line AB the length of Arm.  As with type A
2.      Mark point C half of Arm

3.      Square out 1/4 of Armseye from point A on both sides , mark F and E.

4.      Measure 2 (3-4 for puffy sleeve tops) fingers up from A, mark this G.
5.      Measure 2 fingers down (always) from point A, mark this H.
6.      Connect F to G to E with smooth curve, and the same with FHE.  If the FHE shape looks more like a Bow (archery not knot) then you will get greater arm movement.

7.      Square out from C, ½ of  1/3 (that is 1/6) of AS to either side.  Label I and J

8.      Square out from B.  Measure 2 fingers up from B, draw a line Perpendicular to line AB.

9.      Measure ½ of Wrist from B to line created in #8.  Label this point D.
10.  Draw a smooth curve from D to I to F, make sure that both ends, end with 90* angles.

11.  Draw a smooth curve from B to J to E, make sure that both ends, end with 90* angles.  Making an Elbow bump near J is very common in period, and allows an easier bend without pulling up the sleeve.

*  Note that line IJ is a guide line as a minimum, your lines can go beyond there, and often should.
Again be sure to add in seam allowance to All your patterns.

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