Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Slight Digression

For my Celtic Comrades

Converting the Doublet pattern into an Ionar.
Image Stolen from Clan McColin - the people that this post is mostly for.

This is the Celtic version of a doublet.  It covers the upper body, has Sleeves (sort of) and a sort of skirting around the bottom.  So I think it fits roughly into the category.  That’s my story anyway.

So begin by following the directions for a Basic Doublet (search Doublet or doublet in a week) until you get to step #12 then follow these steps to finish out.  With a slight change in step 2.

You will need to make the following changes to the measurements as given for doublets:

Front LengthFL, should now only go to the belly button (for big guys) or a couple fingers above (for little guys)
Back length BL, you need to make sure that this ends in the small of the back.  Usually a couple of fingers above the belt line.
Waist W, moving the other measurements up means that the waist needs to move up as well.  So the Waist is more the Belly (natural waist) than where your jeans go.  So go around through the bellybutton and the small of the back.  Seriously quit sucking it in.


Step 2 – Instead of making line EF 2-3 fingers lower than half of BL make it 1/3 up from B to raise the waistline.
Follow the rest from this modification. Until step 12

Step 12 – Instead of putting point K 2/3 around the armseye put it about at the bottom.

Step 13- measure from the backline ¼ of the new waist (Belly) Connect this point L to point K.

Step 14 – Measure the same distance ¼ Belly to point M, if this does not cross point L (thin guys) then continue to Step 16.

Step 15 – Optional Big guys – Point M and L crossed, Erase point L and M land be glad because you just removed a seam from your Ionar, and made it closer to the Dungiven doublet.  The ionar will now be cut as a single piece.  Measure along BC ½ Belly, to new point N’. 

Step 16 – Measure from G’ down to point N, connect M to N with a line.  If you followed Step 15 then you may need to move point N’ a bit to make it match N

Step 17 – Draw a gently curved line from point N to point G, this will cut off point G’
Here is the what Step 17 will look like for the Big guys


Finished ionar pattern
Finished Large ionar pattern
Step 18 – Along the selvedge edge of your wool, cut a strip 3x’s the length of the Belly measurement and about, a full hand width (or more to account for seam allowance) wide.  If the selvedge is the same on both edges you can use both sides and cut the pattern from the center.  This is the skirting that will be added to the bottom of the Ionar.  This will be pleated into the bottom edge of the ionar.

Step 19 – Collar edging, According to both the Ashmoleum woodcut and the Derrick woodcuts there is a small collar on the edge of the ionar that runs up the front and around the back of the neck.  Like the skirting this appears to be a thin strip of straight grain fabric, perhaps even a selvedge edge, that is added to the edge and lays flat creating the standup look in the Durer watercolor.  So cut a piece that is the length 2xNG + 2xHA and 3-4 fingers wide (that includes a finger for seam allowance) along the straight of grain.


Sunday, March 4, 2012

Preview - Tomorrow

Tomorrow we Cut Fabric so you can get a head start by pre-washing anything that you intend to wash as a garment.  For me that generally means washing everything but silk, in cold or warm water gently.  For linen and cotton warm and dry hot.  I want them to shrink as much as then are going to, before the garment is made.  For wool I wash in cold with a bit of baby shampoo and dry gently.  I don't want to raise that much of the nap, unless I am going for the peasant look, in which case wash warm and dry hot.  Buy extra if you are going to do this as you will loose about a 1/4 yard for every two yards in length.

Doublet in a Week - Day 2 Tabs

Tabs and skirting

Doublets generally have either Tabs or Skirting at the bottom.  Early Elizabethan period tended to be skirting as Doublets evolved from the coats of Henry VIII that had longer skirting.  As time when on it go shorter and shorter until at the beginning of Elizabeth’s reign it was around 3-4 inches wide and divided into 2-3 pieces.  As Her reign went on the skirting was split into more pieces and those pieces changed shape sometimes adding small tabs Leicester was very fond of tiny little tabs added to the bottom of either the Skirting or the Doublet itself.  Until towards the end of the reign there were commonly quite a few 9 or more large tabs or dozens of small (less than 2 inches across.)  There was another type, loops of fabric that also showed up midway through the reign.



The shape of the tabs varied from round to almost diamond shaped, depending on the look that the individual is looking for.  Tabs were usually attached as separate pieces but the skirting was often a part of the doublet body.  Tabs often overlapped and were ornamented to match the doublet. 

Adding the skirting to the doublet pattern is actually quite simply a matter of extending the pattern.  It is a matter of personal preference as to how long the skirting is but I recommend that it be at least 3 inches. 

1. Extend and redraw a smooth curve around the bottom of the doublet pieces. 

2. Make the bottom edge longer, so that it can flair.

3. Angle the front and back of the skirt by 2-3 fingers from both ends.

If you choose to make the skirting separate pieces then the shape changes a little. 
The top edge curves down about 1-2 fingers and the shape evens out, having less of an S curve and more a simple curve.


Tabs – suggested shapes

Make sure that you have enough to go all the way around the waist line of the doublet, I recommend that you make a couple extra and pick the best looking ones to use.

*Note that the tab shapes all taper inwards at the top and thus spread out at the bottom, allowing for spreading. 

Add a fingers worth more to the top end of the tab to account for tucking in to the doublet.

If you are going to over lap the tabs, then make sure that you start at the back and space them evenly around the waistline.  The overlap should be symmetrical from the center back.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Doublet in a Week - Day 2

Some of you may have already begun Day Two with the epaulets and collar, if not Welcome to day two Sleeves and tabs or skirting.  We shall begin with Sleeves.


As was mentioned in the Definitions section, Doublets have Sleeves, if it has no sleeves it is a Jerkin.  The sleeves are the same fabric as the Doublet on all the extant men’s doublets that I have seen, and all the portraits that I have seen.  I have found that when it looks like the sleeves are a different fabric from the body of the doublet it turns out that the outer garment is a jerkin and there is a doublet of the same fabric underneath. 
Many modern renactors will attempt to achieve this look by wearing sleeves of a different color or fabric with a doublet.  If you are going to do this please keep in mind that the doublet underneath is supposed to be the same fabric as the sleeves and that the garment that you are wearing as outer wear is in fact acting as a Jerkin.
I would love to see counter example of this as it would free up men’s clothing possibilities.  So if you have examples that you think are contradicting what is stated here please bring them up.

On to Patterning sleeves.
Sleeves - Two basic types

Measurements Needed:

                     Armseye - (AS) from the doublet measurement, point of the shoulder under the arm and back, snug but not uncomfortable.
                     Wrist - (Wr) around the wrist with 1 to 3 fingers under the tape depending on looseness desired and thickness of shirt.
                     Arm - (Arm) from the point of the shoulder to the Wrist.



Sleeve type A
This sleeve type is designed to be able to be opened in the front and hang at the sides.  It is best mounted to the doublet with point G at the shoulder seam or just in front of it. It may be buttoned closed or sewn closed.  This sleeve type is not only loosely period, and is more designed for those who do events in the heat and want the option of hanging sleeves without the annoyance of them getting in the way all the time.
The design is fairly simple and involves only a couple of seams and a few button holes.  As a point of future interest these sleeves can be modified by making them longer and then they will serve quite well on a scholar’s robe or as hanging sleeves with other sleeves underneath.


1.       Draw line AB the length of the Arm

2.      Square out from A the length of ½ Armseye (AS) to C and D to either side. 

3.      Square out from B ½ of Wrist to points E and F to either side

4.      Connect C to the line squared up from E, similarly connect D to line up from F

5.      Connect F` to B to E` with a curve, edges meeting at 90*.

6.      Half way between A and C, measure up 2 fingers (3-4 for puffy upper sleeves.) G
7.      Halfway between A and D, measure Down 2 fingers (only 2 even for puffy) H
8.      Connect D to H to A to G to C with a smooth curve, ending at 90*.



As with All these patterns there is NO SEAM ALLOWANCE added, You must add it in.

Sleeve type B
This sleeve is tighter fitting and a good generic basic sleeve. Both pieces are laid out as the same shape with a different top curve. These sleeves are what you will find in multiple instances in period sources.  They are sometimes all cut as one piece with the back of the upper arm being left attached, forming a sort of inverted Y shape.  The shape of these sleeves allows for the arms to be held at a naturally bent angle without the wrinkling that would normally happen with a tube sleeve like in sleeve A.  This sleeve is the natural choice for Courtiers and others conscious of their appearance.
When attaching the sleeve, the top of the sleeve should be mounted behind the shoulder seam on the doublet.  This pushes the arms forward where they actually hang, not in some sort of Military parade rest position.
This pattern is a little different from most patterns since you will be creating both the top and bottom pieces on the sleeve on the same piece with a slight change at the top for the top opening.  I find that punching holes along the lower (inner) sleeve line allows for a dotted line to trace over in tracing on the fabric.      


1.      Draw line AB the length of Arm.  As with type A
2.      Mark point C half of Arm

3.      Square out 1/4 of Armseye from point A on both sides , mark F and E.

4.      Measure 2 (3-4 for puffy sleeve tops) fingers up from A, mark this G.
5.      Measure 2 fingers down (always) from point A, mark this H.
6.      Connect F to G to E with smooth curve, and the same with FHE.  If the FHE shape looks more like a Bow (archery not knot) then you will get greater arm movement.

7.      Square out from C, ½ of  1/3 (that is 1/6) of AS to either side.  Label I and J

8.      Square out from B.  Measure 2 fingers up from B, draw a line Perpendicular to line AB.

9.      Measure ½ of Wrist from B to line created in #8.  Label this point D.
10.  Draw a smooth curve from D to I to F, make sure that both ends, end with 90* angles.


11.  Draw a smooth curve from B to J to E, make sure that both ends, end with 90* angles.  Making an Elbow bump near J is very common in period, and allows an easier bend without pulling up the sleeve.

*  Note that line IJ is a guide line as a minimum, your lines can go beyond there, and often should.
Again be sure to add in seam allowance to All your patterns.