For my Celtic Comrades
Converting the Doublet pattern into an Ionar.
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| Image Stolen from Clan McColin - the people that this post is mostly for. |
This is the Celtic version of a doublet. It covers the upper body, has Sleeves (sort of) and a sort of skirting around the bottom. So I think it fits roughly into the category. That’s my story anyway.
So begin by following the directions for a Basic Doublet (search Doublet or doublet in a week) until you get to step #12 then follow these steps to finish out. With a slight change in step 2.
You will need to make the following changes to the measurements as given for doublets:
Front Length – FL, should now only go to the belly button (for big guys) or a couple fingers above (for little guys)
Back length – BL, you need to make sure that this ends in the small of the back. Usually a couple of fingers above the belt line.
Waist – W, moving the other measurements up means that the waist needs to move up as well. So the Waist is more the Belly (natural waist) than where your jeans go. So go around through the bellybutton and the small of the back. Seriously quit sucking it in.
Step 2 – Instead of making line EF 2-3 fingers lower than half of BL make it 1/3 up from B to raise the waistline.
Follow the rest from this modification. Until step 12
Step 12 – Instead of putting point K 2/3 around the armseye put it about at the bottom.
Step 13- measure from the backline ¼ of the new waist (Belly) Connect this point L to point K.
Step 14 – Measure the same distance ¼ Belly to point M, if this does not cross point L (thin guys) then continue to Step 16.
Step 15 – Optional Big guys – Point M and L crossed, Erase point L and M land be glad because you just removed a seam from your Ionar, and made it closer to the Dungiven doublet. The ionar will now be cut as a single piece. Measure along BC ½ Belly, to new point N’.
Step 16 – Measure from G’ down to point N, connect M to N with a line. If you followed Step 15 then you may need to move point N’ a bit to make it match N.
Step 17 – Draw a gently curved line from point N to point G, this will cut off point G’.
Here is the what Step 17 will look like for the Big guys
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| Finished ionar pattern |
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| Finished Large ionar pattern |
Step 18 – Along the selvedge edge of your wool, cut a strip 3x’s the length of the Belly measurement and about, a full hand width (or more to account for seam allowance) wide. If the selvedge is the same on both edges you can use both sides and cut the pattern from the center. This is the skirting that will be added to the bottom of the Ionar. This will be pleated into the bottom edge of the ionar.
Step 19 – Collar edging, According to both the Ashmoleum woodcut and the Derrick woodcuts there is a small collar on the edge of the ionar that runs up the front and around the back of the neck. Like the skirting this appears to be a thin strip of straight grain fabric, perhaps even a selvedge edge, that is added to the edge and lays flat creating the standup look in the Durer watercolor. So cut a piece that is the length 2xNG + 2xHA and 3-4 fingers wide (that includes a finger for seam allowance) along the straight of grain.
