Doublet in a week - day 1 continued

Yeah that seems like an oxymoron, but the previous post was getting long.  So here are the instructions for the collar and epaulets.

Epaulets are the wing-like structures that stick out fro the arm hole on a doublet.  They are unique to Doublets (with the exception of some '80 fashion.)  There has been a tendency in some faire costumes for these to become little baseball cap like winglets that are non-historical.  The historical epaulets almost went all the way around the armscye when they existed at all.  There are some examples of doublets, particularly ones that would fit under armour.  

Epaulet construction

1.   Draw a straight line,

2.      Select a distance not less than ½ the Armscye AS. 

3.      Mark T and T’ at either end of your selected distance.

4.      Mark a center line between T and T’

5.      Measure out from this center line 2-4 fingers mark a point

6.      Measure up from T and T’ one finger width, mark these points.

7.      Connect all three points just measured with a gentle curve.  This is the outer edge of the epaulet.

8.      From the center line measure down one thumb width, mark a point

9.      With a gentle curve connect this point to T and T’, this is the inner edge of the epaulet.

Collars

There are two different ways that the collar can be constructed.  Band and Grown in, Band is simply a straight strip of fabric that is the length Neck, so I will walk through how to make a grown in collar.  If you don’t like it or want a simpler solution simply cut or leave it off.  Collars during this time were typically tall to support the typical Ruffs.

Collar construction

1.   From Point H measure up 2-4 fingers, mark point H’, connect H to H’

2.      From point A mark a point one less finger up than you just marked H’, Connect A to A’

3.      Draw a gentle curve connecting H’ to A’,
* Note Rounding the corner at H makes a better fit and eliminates the wrinkles at the back of the neck.

4.      Measure the distance from G to G’, use this distance to draw a straight line for collar A

 5.      Measure up from G the distance from H to H’, mark a point.

6.      Mark a point 2-3 fingers up from point G’

7.      Connect these points with a gentle curve.

8.      *Optional – gently curving the upward lines outward allows for the flaring of a ruffled shirt and tends to fit better.

Note that this pattern Does NOT have seam allowances already added in.  You must add them yourself.

Doublet in a Week - Day 1

Instructions for the construction of a Basic Block Doublet

Original presentation by Jose Fellipe Franciso of the SCA, with thanks for showing me the way of thirds.

Measurements - for a Doublet or Jerkin these are the basics.

·               Front length = FL - From the hollow of the throat to the bottom of the belt (as worn in jeans)

·               Back length = BL – from the top of the neck to the top of the pants.

·               From the neck to the shoulder = S – as close in to the neck as possible to the point of the shoulder (the point that goes up and down when you raise and lower your arm)

·               Around the chest + 3-4 fingers = C

·               Around the belly (quit sucking it in) at the belly button +2-3 fingers = Be

·               Waist at the top of the jeans or pants + 2 fingers = W

·               Neck around with 1 finger under tape +3 fingers = N

·               Armscye = AS – fairly tight in around the armpit from shoulder point and back to shoulder point.  Tighter is better, you can make it bigger not smaller.

Sleeve measurements

·               Arm length from point of shoulder to wrist = A

·               Wrist Circumference = Wr

·               Bicep measurement = B

·               Elbow measurement, distance from shoulder to elbow = E

Layout of basic block

         Quick walk through of how to apply the measurements to the actual pattern.

1.   Draw a rectangle ABCD with the height = BL and the length =½C

2.         Draw line EF 2-3 fingers lower than half of BL

3.   Across line AD mark it into 1/3 and square down to line EF.

4.      Down 2-2 ½ fingers from line AD mark a point I on the front 1/3 mark just drawn.

5.      Down 1 thumb width from line AD mark a point J on the back 1/3 mark.

6.      From point D mark a point G, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6^th ) the neck N, along line DA

7.      From point D mark a point G’, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6^th ) the neck N, along line DC

8.      Square in from points G and G’, round the corner of the box formed.

9.      From point A mark a point H, 1/3 of half (that’s 1/6^th ) the neck N.

10.    From point H draw a line towards point J the length of S (shoulder)

11.    From point G draw a line towards point I the length of S (shoulder)

12.       Using measurement AS (Armscye) connect points I and J and touch the line EF.  This line should bulge towards the front, not symmetrically.

 13.    Pick a point on this curve, near line EF and about 2/3 of the way from I to J mark it K

14.    Measure from B 1/3 of half W (the waist), mark this point L.

15.    Connect point K to L.  This line can be curved or straight depending on fit.

16.    Measure from C 2/3 of half W (the waist), mark this point M.

17.    Draw a line from K towards W the length of KL, this line may be curved or straight depending on fit.

18.    Measure from point G’ (the front length) the distance FL mark this point N.

19.    Draw a gentle curve connecting N to M, it should be close to 2/3 of half the Waist.

20.    Measure out from about ½ way between point F and C 1-2 fingers and draw a point.

21.    Connect points G’ and N through this new point out from F, This creates the Peascod.

And darken in the lines of the Doublet Pattern

Note that the Pattern is constructed withOUT seam allowances, so be sure to add them in.

Measurements for Doublet

Measurements needed to construct a

Basic Block Doublet

This is all based on an Original presentation by Jose Fellipe Franciso of the SCA, I have borrowed and modified his techniques.  He has my thanks for showing me the way of thirds, and showing me how traditional pattern drafting could be done.  Thank you sir, you made a huge difference for me and others.  I would like to talk with you again now that I understand a little bit more of how it works.

All errors are mine.

Allow me to explain how this technique will work since it is different from more modern drafting techniques.  This is based on a technique that pre-dates standardized rulers and measuring tapes.  In period, Tailors used a string and knots or threads to mark the measurements.  We will use a long strip of paper (about 45-60 inches) and measure from one end and mark with a pencil on the strip.  This strip can be saved and the measurements used for multiple patterns.  It also avoids things like are we measuring to a ¼ inch a ½ inch, we just use the exact measurement, and you won’t have to deal with embarrassing numbers.

This will require various folding techniques.  When we need Half the measurements, just fold it in half, when we need 1/3 use an envelope fold.  See no math, no need for a calculator, for you math-phobics.

For small measurements we will use a measuring device that you can’t set down, your fingers.  Use the width of one, two or more fingers for small measurements like easing or expanding a pattern piece.  Don’t worry over the idea that your fingers are different from mine; you will get used to yours and modify your patterns and instructions accordingly.  For example I use one finger as seam allowance on all my patterns, does that seam about right?  Would you prefer a thumb width?

Measurements - for a Doublet or Jerkin these are the basics.

Ideally these should be taken while wearing the pants and shirt that you will wear with the doublet.  Otherwise I will be assuming that the model is wearing jeans and a t-shirt, but I will refer to anatomical points as much as possible.

• Front length = FL – From the hollow of the throat to the bottom of the belt (as worn in jeans)
• Back length = BL – from the top of the neck to the top of the pants.
• From the neck to the shoulder = S – as close in to the neck as possible to the point of the shoulder (the point that goes up and down when you raise and lower your arm)
• Around the chest at the nipple level + 3-4 fingers = C
• Around the belly (quit sucking it in) at the belly button +2-3 fingers = Be
• Waist at the top of the jeans or pants + 2 fingers = W
• Neck around with 1 finger under tape +3 fingers = N
• Armscye = AS – fairly tight in around the armpit from shoulder point and back to shoulder point.  Tighter is better, you can make it bigger not smaller.

Sleeve measurements

• Arm length from point of shoulder to wrist = A
• Wrist Circumference = Wr
• Bicep measurement = B
• Elbow measurement, distance from shoulder to elbow = E

Gather Your Materials

Basic doublet in a week – Day 0

So here is the goal, as indicated by the title, I want to walk through how to build a basic doublet from pattern to buttons in a week.  That title may be changed as I realize exactly what I have bitten off, but I remain optimistic.  So fueled by optimism and beer let us begin.

Gathering your materials for the Pattern –

1.      A table or other large flat surface, any 4’x4’ surface that you can draw on, and will not inconvenience the entire family if you completely clear it off for a couple of hours one night.

2.      Paper about 36” wide and 4’ long (more if you intend on weird shapes or making lots of mistakes) – I like the masking paper that you can get at most hardware stores on a giant roll.  It is how I like my beer, Brown, strong and cheap.  Leftover Christmas wrap, craft paper, butcher paper, any will work and are fine for someone just looking to make one doublet.  I guess my point here is that you don’t have to buy “pattern paper,” it is expensive, fragile, and misleading (the grid is not uniform) there are plenty of substitutes.

3.      A yard stick or similar straight edge, it does not have to be a measuring device as we will not be using it as one.

4.      A pencil and a good eraser, perhaps a crayon or marker to indicate the lines to cut on as opposed to construction lines.

5.      A square or triangle to draw 90 degree angles would also be helpful.  Again don’t go buy one, use the edge of something square. 

6.      A thin strip of paper, this can be cut from the roll and taped together, or it can be adding machine paper, cut in half lengthwise.

7.      Paper scissors, NOT you Fabric scissors; they will dull so fast that you will end up chewing the fabric apart.  Go get a cheap pair only for paper, you will be Much happier.

As you may have guessed from the above, we will be drafting this pattern.  Wait don’t close the window and walk away, it is not that hard, even for the Geometrically challenged.  If you can draw a line then you can do this.  You can honestly.

You may have also guessed that I am trying to make this as inexpensive as possible, since many of you will just want a doublet not a new hobby.  I will try to explicitly state where you need to spend money and where you can go on the cheap.  Generally spend money on things that people are going to see, it is totally period to be flashy on the outside and patched and threadbare on the inside.

Fabric
Speaking of Fabric, you will need some of that as well.  I will be basing these measurements on 45 inch wide fabric, if you are using a patterned fabric then you may need a little more (another ½ yard should do.)  I will be using the lining as a mock up, and getting piecing the mock up where necessary.  If you plan on seriously making mistakes on the mockup then double the lining fabric amount.  You can always use any messed up mockups for interlining or as padding (some on the shoulders or belly is sometimes useful.)  Waste-Not Want-Not.

You will need: 

Lining – 1 ½ yards
Fashion Fabric – 1 ½ yards
Trim – ½ yards of fabric if using a separate fabric for trim or binding. Otherwise you can add this half a yard to the fashion fabric or the lining fabric if you are going to use that as a trim.  If you are using a purchased trim as trim instead of fabric then ignore this entirely.
Buttons – 24+, Smaller buttons (less than 3/4 inch) equal to the length down the front (usually about 20 inches) plus 4 more (two for sleeves and two spares)

Fabric choices – If you are planning on making your own doublet then I hope that you already know a little about fabrics, so I will be brief.

Wool and linen, maybe silk if you are rich. 

·        Okay a little more, Choose something cheap and natural for lining cotton or rayon blended will work but it neither as period or as comfortable.  Avoid polyester and other synthetic fibers.

·        For the fashion fabric a small amount of synthetic is acceptable but try really hard not to go above 20%. 

·        Trim content matters very little except that it not look silly.  Flat ribbon trims are worse than dimensional braided trims.

Now that you have all the stuff you will need, you need measurements and a test subject.  Since animal testing is cruel go find a human subject.  J

Defining Terms

So what is a doublet?  Hopefully if you are reading this Blog then you already have some idea as to what you refer to as a doublet.  Janet Arnold was a leading researcher in the area of historical clothing, and I lean heavily on her research in defining these terms.  Just so that we are all speaking the same language I will define my terms as follows;

Doublet - a tight fitted upper garment derived from the aketon and pourepoint

·        As the name suggests, the garment is always lined, doubling the layers.

·        The bottom edge is Pointed in front and flat across the back

·        It has tabs or skirting around the bottom, often with epaulets or rolls at shoulders

·        High waisted, sits at the natural waist, not where jeans sit closer to the belly button.

·        Pants can be tied in showing its evolution from the Pourepoint and Aketon in previous period.  (Suspenders are not period)

·        Upper classes are well tailored, lower classes have less tailoring but still tight fit.

·        They are often padded (sometimes quilted) throughout especially in the belly region, called a peasecod.

·        Sleeves are Attached, I now think permanently except in women’s and children’s doublets.  They are also made of the same fabric as the doublet.

·        Generally made of the same fabric on both sleeves and doublet body, and only one fabric, with the exception of trim.  (The mixing of multiple fabrics is a modern convention)

Jerkin - over coat- short, no sleeves

·        Usually worn over the doublet for the upper classes, but can be worn alone by the lower classes.

·        Looser fitting than a doublet, usually worn open at the bottom, closed toward the top by upper classes

·        Sometimes made of leather, but are generally made from other hardy fabrics

·        Can also be a working garment.

·        Is not necessarily lined, often not in lower classes.

·        Epaulets and skirting like the doublet

Please don’t just trust me, see period sources below and at http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/

Here are some examples of Doublets

 And here are a few Doublets with Jerkins

 White doublet with Black leather (velvet?) Jerkin

Buff Jerkin over a red silk (leather?) doublet

 More Jerkins over Doublets (note the difference in opening)

There are other more draping garments which I hope to cover at a later time